Einfach tierisch
Auf den Zehenspitzen pirschen wir durch’s Unterholz und vier Augenpaare scannen das Gebüsch auf der Suche nach Rhino, Kragenbär, Tiger oder doch wenigstens einem wilden Elefanten.
Früh morgens wurden wir in dichtem Nebel mit einem Kanu den Fluss hinunter geschippert und sind nun zu Fuss auf dem Rückweg. Die Guides die uns dabei begleiten sind beide mit einem dicken Bambusstab ausgerüstet und sollen damit dafür sorgen, dass unser Chitwan Nationalpark-Abenteuer nicht allzu abenteuerlich wird. Auch instruiert wurden wir bereits: Bei einem wilden Rhino: auf einen dicken Baum klettern (aber wie dick ist dick genug?). Bei einem agressiven Kragenbären: Sich hinter dem Guide verstecken und beten, dass der ihn in die Flucht schlägt (eher buddhistische Mantras oder doch lieber das Vaterunser?). Bei einem wütigen Elefanten: rennen so schnell man kann (aber wie schnell ist schnell genug?). Und bei einem Tiger: Egal, denn den sieht man eh kaum.
Zwischen den morgentlichen Nebelschwaden haben wir zwar eine sehr schöne Begegnung mit ein paar majestätischen Hirschen und die beiden Giudes geben sich auch alle Mühe wenigstens ein Rhino für uns aufzutreiben (einer klettert sogar extra auf einen Baum), doch mehr als ein paar Affen, Pfauen, Krokis und wilde Hühner liegen heute scheinbar nicht drin. Dies liegt zum Teil sicher auch daran, dass das Gras im Moment bis zu 8 (!) Meter hoch ist. Da drin hätten wir den Tiger wohl auch nicht gesehen, wenn er einen Meter neben uns gestanden wäre. Hmmm, schade, schade… obwohl so ganz unter uns gesagt, bin ich vielleicht ja sogar fast ein kleines bisschen froh darüber, dass wir keines der grossen, gefährlichen Tiere sehen.
Witzig ist aber auch, dass sich neben den üblichen heiligen Kühen, Wasserbüffel, etc. hier auch Elefanten durch die Strassen tummeln. Diese sind zwar meist sehr gut erzogen und geübt darin auf ihrem Rücken Touristen durch den Jungle zu führen oder sie auf Kommando mit Wasser abzuspritzen, aber kurz vor unserer Abreise spaziert gerade ein wilder Elefant durchs Dorf (dem wir jedoch fern bleiben, da er nervös und daher gefährlich sei) und vor ein paar Monaten wurde im Nachbarsgarten ein Tiger betäubt nachdem er einen Hund verspiesen hatte.
Letzteres erzählt uns zumindest der Guesthousebesitzer bei einem Grillabend, welcher direkt schon argentinische Ausmasse annimmt. Ausserdem erzählt er, dass er während 30 Jahren als Gurkha beim Englischen Militär gedient hat. Nicht wenig Stolz schwingt dabei in seiner Stimme mit, denn die Aufnahmebedingungen für diese Fremdenlegion gelten als extrem hart und die Gurkhas tragen in Nepal deshalb ein hohes Ansehen. Diese Geschichte nehmen wir ihm auch sofort ab, denn immerhin ist er der erste und einzige Nepali den wir jemals joggen sahen. Mit seiner Rente hat er sich nun dieses Guesthouse gebaut, musste dann aber feststellen, dass dessen Betrieb gar nicht so einfach ist, denn mit Touristen müsse man völlig anders umgehen als mit Soldaten.
Kürzlich wurde im Nationalpark ein junges, von der Mutter verlassenes Nashorn gefunden. Seither tingelt es um ein Museum herum. Daran einen Käfig zu bauen hat zwar noch niemand gedacht, aber der der Museumseintritt wurde sofort aufs Doppelte erhöht. Allerdings warnen uns alle vor ihm, “because it nocked down two tourists already this morning”.
Auch die Elefanten-Aufzuchtsstation schauen wir uns an. Es ist spannend zuzuschauen wie geschickt diese Riesen ihren Rüssel verwenden und wie die kleinen mit ihren Mamis interagieren.
Die kleinen können übrigens frei herum spatzieren, was der ganzen Sache einen Luga-Streichelzoo-Touch verleiht.
Schliesslich verlassen wir diese tierische Stadt um eine weitere Ettape voll nepalesischem Alltagsleben an uns vorbeiziehen zu lassen. Dazu gehören fröhlich grüssende Menschen jeglichen Alters, grosse Stapel frischer Mandarinen, Schulbusse mit Nase-an-den-Fenstern-platt-drückender Kids, Fussgänger die den Highway überquern ohne auch nur den Kopf zu drehen und dabei trotzdem nicht platt werden, dicke Geier, die im A380-Style von den Bäumen starten, Affenfamilien am Strassenrand, Fahrzeuge deren Dächer ebenso gut besetzt sind wie die Sitzplätze, Paraplegiker, die auf dem Boden entlang bewegend Busse reinigen um ein paar Rupees zu verdienen, und Schulhäuser, deren Kids wir noch rufen, schreien und winken hören obwohl wir schon längst um die nächste Kurve gebogen sind.
Der Silvester scheint hier ebensowenig statt zu finden, wie die Weihnacht und der Weltuntergang. Da sich niemand so richtig ums neue Jahr schert, Mitternacht in Nepal eine sehr, sehr späte Zeit ist und weil wir morgen eine lange Etappe vor uns haben, schlafen wir schliesslich ein, bevor es da ist.
Bis auf den Pass sind es satte 2’000 Höhenmeter und wir fahren deshalb wieder mal einen ganzen Tag lang nur bergauf um in der Mitte einer Horde fröhlicher Schulkids oben anzukommen. Sie deponieren ihre Schultaschen auf unseren Gepäckträgern, setzen die Kleinsten unter ihnen obendrauf und dann wird geschoben was das Zeug hält… und zwar mit Ausdauer!
Von Daman aus sehen wir sie dann nochmals alle, die weissen Riesen Nepals – von Dalaugiri bis Everest. Eigentlich ein wahnsinniges Bild, doch wir haben es bereits allzu oft gesehen in der letzten Zeit um so richtig in Begeisterung auszubrechen. Das ist wohl ein deutliches Zeichen dafür, dass es langsam Zeit ist in ein neues Land aufzubrechen… obwohl wir uns sehr wohl gefühlt haben hier. Wie könnte man auch anders, in einem Land in dem die Leichtigkeit des Lebens und die Fröhlichkeit der Menschen weder im Jungle noch in den Bergen fehlt…
In einem Strom anarchistisch veranlagter Motorräder, Trucks und Busse schwimmen wir schliesslich nach Kathmandu hinein.
Nun bleiben gerade noch ein paar Tage um durch die mittelalterlich anmutenden Gassen Bhaktapurs mit ihren tausend Tempeln zu streifen, …
… in einem unaufhörlichen Strom von Buddhisten um eine der grössten Stupas dieser Welt herum zu pilgern …
… und dem Steakhouse einen letzten Besuch abzustatten.
Allzu traurig bin ich aber nicht, als wir am letzten Abend auf usere Steaks warten, denn aus irgend einem Grund bin ich recht sicher, dass wir früher oder später wieder hier sitzen werden…
Und ob ihr es glaubt oder nicht: Wenn man aus dem Paradies abhebt, kommt man in den siebten Himmel – in unserm Fall mit einer Boing 777 von Korean Airlines.
Was wir uns beim Buchen vorgestellt hatten sind zwei lange Flüge unterbrochen von einer schlaflosen Nacht und einem langen Tag auf den unbequemen Sitzen des Südkoreanischen Flughafenterminals. Ein 17-stündiger Aufenthalt ist sicher nicht optimal, aber dies war nun mal der günstigste Flug…
Was uns auf dem ersten Flug glücklich macht, sind die unzähligen Filme, der grosszügige Platz und die zuverlässigen Refills wann immer wir unsere Weisswein-, Rotwein- und Colabecher in den Gang hinaus strecken. Noch besser wird es aber, als wir dann in Seoul mitten in der Nacht von einem Shuttle direkt vor einem 5-Sternhotel abgestellt werden, das wir in Crocs, behelfsmässig geflickter Hose und unzähligen Löchern im T-Shirt kaum getrauen zu betreten. Nachdem man uns mehrmals versichert hat, dass dies wirklich im Flugpreis inklusive und kostenlos ist, verirren wir uns erstmal staunend in diesem riesigen Bau und finden erst beim zweiten Anlauf in unser “Zimmer” im obersten Stock, das neben einer riesigen Fensterfront auch über ein Büro, Sessel, gigantischen Fernseher, Badewanne und geheitztes Klo verfügt. Wir schaffen es ehrlichgesagt nicht all die spannendenn Klofunktionen auszuprobieren, bevor wir in dieses unglaubliche Bett fallen.
Bei einer sehr langen, sehr heissen Dusche erinnere ich mich schmunzelnd an die besten Wellness-Erlebnisse bisher: Auf dem Zanskar-Trek zum Beispiel hatten wir einmal ganz unverhofft einen Kessel heisses Wasser gekriegt. Und in Kalpa hatten wir diesen kleinen Boiler in unserem Zimmer. Die Dusche ging damals zwar nicht aber mit dem heissen Wasser und einem Becher konnte ich mich während Stunden vergnügen. Dabei stand ich in einem grossen Kessel drin um das warme Waser zu recyclen. Nach zwei Stunden mussten wir das Ding aber ausschalten, da wir befürchteten, dass es explodiert. Und in Pokhara hatten wir auch einige so richtig heisse Duschen – aber auch ebensoviele kalte.
Diesmal aber haben wir es mit einem ganzen Wellnessbereich zu tun und wir kommen direkt ein Bischen in Stress um Whirlpool, Hotpot, Sauna und 25m-Becken gleichermassen gerecht zu werden ohne dabei eine der Mahlzeiten zu verpassen, die in Form von Buffets daher kommen, die meine Entscheidungsfähigkeit ebenso überfordern wie meinen Magen.
Liebe grüsse von den an einer post-nepalesischen Depression infolge Aufmerksamkeitsverlust leidenden
Petra und Reto
hey danke, so toll! het mi mega ufgstöut di stories z läse am Morge vomene Rägetag do in Quito… freue mi, as es e guete Flug gsi esch und ou, s nöchscht mou us Neuseeland z läse…
e liebe liebe Gruess
Hallo zäme, merci für die tolle Brichtli u Fötelis i de letschte Mönet. Ir wüsst ja, wi mir das ou fäut!!!
… Guet han i dr erscht Kommentar no grad gläse. Jupii, es geit no witer 😉
Verträumt, die Fotos aus dem Nebelwald…Wie immer haben wir euren Blogeintrag zu zweit genossen, mal gelacht, mal durchgeatmet (sind gar nicht böse, dass euch die Tiger und Kragenbären nicht zum Fressen gern hatten) und raten, zur Überwindung der postnepalesischen Depression einfach kräftig in die Pedale zu treten oder zu einem umwerfenden Panorama am Mount Cook aufzusteigen…
Liebe Grüsse aus einem verträumt unter einer Schneedecke liegenden Land mit butterzarten Loipen
Wunderschöne Fotos, mitreissende Berichte… und ich habe das Gefühl nicht mehr vor dem PC sondern auf eurem Gepäckträger zu sitzen und mit zu sehen… so genial!
Danke für diesen Einblick!
Hey ihr beiden,
schnief … ;), danke für die schönen Zeilen. Schöne Zeit für´s nächste Land!
lg
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